History and character
The Old Course at Ballybunion, on the Atlantic edge of County Kerry, is one of the most revered links in the world, a course Tom Watson loved so deeply he declared anyone wanting to learn about links golf should play it. Founded in 1893, the layout winds through enormous dunes pressed hard against the ocean, and an old graveyard sits beside the very first tee as a reminder to keep your drive straight. Watson and architect Tom Simpson helped shape and protect its character over the decades, and Bill Clinton famously played here, with a statue of the former president now standing in the town. For many, it is the purest expression of links golf on earth.
The round and signature holes
Ballybunion saves its glory for the holes that run along and above the cliffs, where the fairways tilt toward the sea and the dunes rise like fortress walls. The par-four 11th is the celebrated signature, a clifftop hole tumbling downhill beside the Atlantic that Watson and many others rate among the best holes anywhere. The stretch from the 7th onward keeps delivering drama, with greens perched in hollows and tee shots framed by towering sandhills and crashing surf. There is no padding and no easing in; the wind, the contours and the ocean make every club selection a question, and a good score here is earned hole by hole.
When to go and how to get on
May to September is the heart of the season, offering the firmest turf, the longest light and the best chance of kinder weather, though the Wild Atlantic Way delivers wind and rain in any month and full waterproofs are non-negotiable. Ballybunion is a members club that welcomes visitors at premium green fees befitting its world standing, and the Old Course should be booked well in advance for high summer. Shoulder-season rounds in spring and early autumn are quieter and often play firm and fast. The newer Cashen course, a Robert Trent Jones design, provides a wilder companion round for those wanting a second loop.
Who it is for and pairings
Ballybunion is for the serious links pilgrim who wants to play a course spoken of in the same breath as the very greatest, and who will relish a true test rather than a gentle holiday round. It is the crown of a southwest Ireland tour, sitting within easy reach of Tralee to the south and Lahinch up in County Clare. The Wild Atlantic Way, the Ring of Kerry and the region seafood and music make the surrounding days a joy in their own right. Combine the southwest links run with the Northern Ireland masterpieces of County Down and Portrush for one of the great golf trips on the planet.